At first sight the main hotel complex is reminiscent of the grand days of Yugoslavian travel in the 80's; big dining halls, the skilful use of concrete design and sweeping stairwells all gave us weary travelers a long lost thrill in these days of boutique hotels and standardised budget hotels where every square meter counts.An Albanian wedding was being held with colour and fabulous folklore and breakfasts were OK It was with disappointment that the friendly receptionist gave us keys and pointed towards what is best describes as a row of barrack blocks. Our room was stuffy; the WC and bathroom a disgrace; the shower tray emptied only with a trickle; mildew was everywhere and meager towels were not fit for a dog. Electric sockets dangled from the wall, the air conditioning clunked and clattered and the dowdy interior almost needed a light in midday sun. To add to our woes the good people of Ulcinj blasted disco music until 12 or 1 each evening which meant the agonising choice between keeping the patio door closed or trying to sleep with the air conditioner.